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Trek down to Phantom Ranch Feb 29 and the trek out on March 1.

Notes from the Grand Canyon –Barb Farr

Two years ago, Gary Borax , a Heritage Highlands hike leader, had a brainstorm in which he envisioned our 55+ hiking group trekking the Grand Canyon . Acting on this brainstorm, he made 50 reservations at the Phantom Ranch (cabins at the bottom) an challenged the hiking club to a week-end adventure. Never wanting to turn down a challenge, and because February, 2004, seemed so far away, we all added our names to the list, and began training for this awe-inspiring trip.

When the week-end of our hike actually arrived, there were lots of last minute butterflies and trepidations. Riding the bus to the south rim (South Kaibab trail), the morning of the hike down with all the “young” hikers, found us all shaking our heads and wondering how we had ever agreed to try this. Then, when we embarked from the bus, we were almost knocked off our feet by the wind and snow. Luckily, our overfilled back backs kept us from blowing over. We had all purchased the ice cleats for the bottom of our boots never realizing how important they were about to become. With a smile, Gary ’s wife, Carol, greeted us and helped us engage our ice cleats like elementary children. After that, there was not much to do but wave good-bye to Carol and smile bravely as we started down the rim trail praying that our cleats would hold. I had a death grip on my hiking sticks too.

The only thing keeping me from turning back was the awe-inspiring view. The beauty and size of the Grand Canyon is humbling. Even through the snowflakes, I couldn’t keep my eyes off the trail ahead as each switchback turned into breathtaking views of different rock formations and colors. The sense of comradeship was also present. We had trained together and knew that none of us would get down and back unless all of us did. Together we were brave. We were also unusually quiet at the top as we contemplated the timelessness of this beautiful canyon in comparison to our short existence.

About a mile and a half from the top, we lost the snow and instead trekked in the mud for about a mile until we finally reached dry trail, and we could finally feel the sun on our faces. We had started the hike with a young, 20-something couple who had ridden the bus with us, but had zoomed ahead on the hike. As we approached a sunny vista, the young woman ran towards us waving her left had in the air and flashing a big, sparkling diamond ring. They had just become engaged!! There was much celebratory excitement and pictures as we were joyful to have been the first to hear the news and offer congratulations.

As ravens soared above our heads, we soon spread out along the trail as we tramped along in quiet contemplation and found solace from our hectic lives in the vast spaces of this Grand Canyon . Excitement came again when we were first able to spot Phantom Ranch and the Colorado River . The pace picked up and spirits were revived. As the shadows lengthened across the spires and the buttes, the last of our group reached the bridge across which was our destination at Phantom Ranch. Tired legs and weary backs were rewarded with the sight of our fellow hikers and the smell of food cooking.

All was well until we were shown the cabins that would best be described as bunkhouses that would be our beds for the night. Most of us hadn’t slept in these conditions since junior high camp or the military. Plus, some were co-ed with one small bathroom for 10 hikers. You might ask how some of us survived, but we did. There was a funny bathroom interruption and lots of snoring, joking and some sleeping. These were minor sacrifices for the privilege of hearing the river roar and seeing the sunset. The food was served family style and in large quantities. There was plenty of cold beer and wine, but the scotch ran out early, and emergency supplies had to be summoned from the hikers coming down the next day. The partying did not last too late however as the exercise and excitement caught up with everyone. Camp quieted early.

Morning was another experience, however, as we were assigned varying breakfast times ( 5:30 being the earliest). In cabins of this size, when one person moves, everyone is awakened so you can imagine the ruckus with everyone packing, dressing, and breakfasting in such tight quarters. The first of our group departed in the dark. The last of us savored the sunrise and regretted not signing up for the second night originally offered. The last of the group departed about 8:30. The first leg of the trip out entailed crossing on a suspension bridge over the churning Colorado River. The view up the canyon afforded a breathtaking view, but the inability to comprehend how we would ever be able to climb up that far was valid. The answer was, as always, one step at a time. And, that is just what we did.

Halfway up, we stopped at Indian Gardens for lunch. Squirrels that were so tame that they tried to drink water out of our packs, practically attacked us. The sun was shining and the steady trickle of the creek made us want to stay for a nap, but we knew the steepest part of the hike was still ahead. One of our party was a geologist and from him we learned and could watch as we hiked out, the rock layers that made up the walls of Grand Canyon range. Kaibab Limestone, deposited approximately 260 million years ago forms the cap rock in most of this region. The oldest rocks exposed at the bottom of the canyon, gneiss (NICE) and schist, dated to as much as 1.8 billion years ago.

This all sounds easy, but then we hit the snow and the steep parts of the upper Bright Angel Trail. On went the ice cleats and ear warmers, and we puffed and huffed up the last mile. Our packs and legs felt twice as heavy. When we finally reached the top, we were greeted with congratulations from our fellow hikers and the celebration began. As we pulled off our packs for the last time, we turned and looked once more at the stunning dimensions from where we had just come. Nowhere else is such a dazzling variety of colorful rock layers, impressive buttes, and shadowed side canyons revealed in such a dramatic canyon. We decided it’s why they call it the Grand Canyon.

Barb Farr