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Trek down to Phantom Ranch on March 1

Notes from the Grand Canyon -  Jan Flory

We left Heritage Highlands with a trunk full of gear, and anxious to get to the much anticipated hike. The drive was uneventful until we neared Flagstaff . The closer we got the deeper the snow--nervous hikers. After a lunch at Garcias, we went north towards Cameron. As the miles ticked away, the snow disappeared--happy hikers. We stopped at the Cameron Trading Post where we saw Navajo rugs, pottery & jewelry. We also saw lots of Indian "stuff" made in Turkey , Rhode Island and China ! From there we turned west to follow the rim, stopping to see the beginning of the Grand Canyon . The snow reappeared. We stopped at the South Kaibab trailhead and talked with hikers coming up. They reported snow and ice for 2 miles and then mud. Nervous hikers. We arrived at Bright Angel Lodge in time for Carol’s 4:00 briefing, had drinks and laughs with other HHHs. All had a restless night anticipating our big hike.

We gathered at the bus stop in 11 degree weather looking like mummies with crampons in hand. Thanks to a tip from day 1 hikers, we put them on during the ride to the trailhead. After a few pictures, we were off. What an awesome beginning. That first step off the rim, looking straight down at many switchbacks, is quite a thrill. Snow and ice kept us going at a slow pace, taking pictures made us even slower. No one seemed to mind as the views were spectacular. Then we hit the mud, and our feet GREW. Dewey’s feet grew even larger. After the mud we were overtaken by the mule train taking trail maintenance workers and equipment. We also met the "dirt bag" mules and the "food/trash" mules. Dirt bag mules carry the dirt for the trail maintenance. The others carry groceries and supplies to Phantom Ranch and trash out. We gained insight into mule behavior. Some have voracious appetites which include their lead ropes and panniers. These get muzzles. We also saw one with hobbles as well as being tied up, but didn’t ask about the cause.

Our only misadventure was losing Sandy VanHandle at the half way mark. Her brother accompanied her back up and still made it to Phantom for dinner.

Down, down, down we went, more and more switchbacks. More and more great views. On one turn we were greeted by a big horn sheep. She posed for lots of pictures. I think she has seen hikers before. Around another turn and the river appeared. It was thick with the red mud we had wallowed through. Looking around were deep canyons, awesome rocks and unending swithchbacks all the way to the Colorado River . When our knees were screaming and our backs aching, we finally reached the tunnel leading to the suspension bridge over the river and flat ground. A quick trip up Bright Angel Creek and we reached the Welcome to Phantom Ranch sign. A few more steps and the other Heritage Highlands hikers cheered our arrival.

Our cabin was a previously described. We shared aches and pains, Flexall and sleeping potions. There were no chairs, so we laid in our beds about 7:30 , and everyone was asleep by 8:00 . Wake up was at 5:00 and breakfast at 5:30 . Can you imagine 9 ladies making it through one bathroom in 30 minutes? Linda, an early riser, decided to get a head start. She started about 4:45 in the dark. Lila joined her, but dumped her change while trying to put on her pants. Finally someone said, "why don’t we turn on the light?" We all made the 5:30 breakfast